V Cruise Part One
While the kids are camping in tents at V in Chelmsford….
Literally, the boat had just got underway, her sails flapping loosely when the summer lambs
bleated a scrambling retreat behind the seawall as I closed in toward them on my
way down the creek, and young black headed gulls squeaked with joy over Bulham
Beach, a little further downstream. The mains’l took some wrestling with before I could shake
out the two reefs that were left in from the last trip a few days previous when
an F6 easterly physically threw Shoal Waters into safety, and the snuggest of
little creeks, Bawley Creek where I sat it out for 12 hours of relaxed comfort
in deep mud.
Unusually, a crabber 24 with Dutch flag raised on her stern sat
anchored lower down in Goldhanger Creek, just above the oyster beds. I said to
the owners how good it was to see them here and carried on my way. New withies
placed in the creek, on the Osea side, just this year have already established
themselves by the look of tell-tale long lengths of weed that now trail behind.
East Point was already appearing from the ebb tide when I just about got into
the main river as the wind died.
Ski boaters enjoying the boiling hot waters of the Blackwater |
The ships thermometer read 30 degrees in the cockpit as the
whole Blackwater boiled for the first time this year. Oh well, I thought, no
wind but at least it was hot and I could go swimming. There was also the magic
carpet of the ebb that was sucking us down river. Fields were being harvested all about the
place which made the green trees stand out over in Ferry Wood. Apparently the
wood got its name from a ferry boat back in the day of visiting hoy's, colliers and brigs, that would not only take the few people
that resided nearby but also take sailors across river to the bright lights of Ramsey
Island, for entertainment I expect. I suppose this makes some sense as Thistly
would have been a desolate rural farm port highly likely to bore any young
blooded sea-faring crew member to tears having to be anchored in Thistly Creek (now known as Thirslet Creek) for many tides.
I filled the kettle for a brew. Hot tea somehow has a
cooling effect, one of those puzzles of life I guess. Already we were quite a
way downriver where through the glare over the mirror topped sea I could make
out the ski boats around the Stone, and an airplane’s distant sound sent me
into a daze. I realised tomorrow mornings bacon rashers were sitting in the sun
so I grabbed a bucket and half filled it with seawater for an ad-hoc food fridge.
I still shake my head
acknowledging in awe sometimes, at the passages Charlie managed to achieve in
this small boat, week in and week out over many decades and with barely any helpful
luxuries. The only real modern luxury
that I can recall is a time back in the late 90s early 2000s when a small solar
panel was fitted to top up the battery power for the compass and navigation lights - most important as
he did a hell of a lot of night sailing. I do recall him telling me how many of
his trips just would not have been possible without him sailing at night.
I keep the boat as Charlie had her which has helped me understand
fully what he went through on a technical level and although I know a lot of cruisers
say an iron tops’l as a backup is not only practising good seamanship but is generally
very handy, other than a trip down the Thames earlier in the year most of my
trips this season I have not needed to call on it, so much so that the engine is
still ashore for this trip, so maybe I have improved as a sailor, but perhaps
not. Maybe I am more tolerant to sitting around drifting hour on end in the doldrums. What is more important and extremely enjoyable I find is adapting to a
slightly different mind-set that is needed if single-handed cruising for days at
a time under the mercy of the winds that howl along the Thames Estuary’s remote
rivers, creeks and inshore coast where tide tables, strong currents, steep sand
banks and mud shoals, shipping and even the home family diary all play havoc in
the watery bailer of the cruising man and woman. I’m sure my little motor will be back onboard at
some point but at the moment I’m flat-on-my-back enjoying being submitted in this
way by nature and ringing home to give another excuse for an extra night out on
the boat.
Carving an everlasting memory across the estuary after six hours sailing |
A south west wind has just hit the starboard beam shaking us
into life. All of a sudden we are racing along beside baked mudflats to Pewit
Island, Bradwell. How things change on the landscape to as five or six enormous
generating windmills have appeared on land behind Clacton. Bradwell Creek still
looks as inviting as ever though, with its putty sides causing chaos to many
who enter from the tide pole. The Baffle has been dismantled and we are left
with a circular island which looks far more appealing than it once did. A unique
opportunity for someone to buy and develop it maybe?
Hugging the south shore I spot a mast poking above the steep
to sand beach ahead at Weymarks - generally a good anchorage in a southerly. A nice breeze keeps us rolling along and
passing the anchored yacht, a fleeting thought came, maybe we should think about doing something
similar, after all as it is getting late and darkness will soon be upon us. Boldly I cruised on in perfect conditions adjusting the sails and settling
the tiller toward the Gunfleet before carving an everlasting memory across the mouth
of the Blackwater estuary.
Low tide would be in half an hour’s time followed
by complete darkness. I plugged in the old brass stern light and switched the
navigation lights on. With the sun gone down behind us, a dark sky was now
directly overhead but our little lights
twinkled and we rode the waves over the new flood tide. When I set out earlier
in the day I had dreamt of reaching Walton pier before the tide turned so we
could get into Harwich, but for the second time this month lack of wind would
keep it a dream for another day. Colne
Point has a fantastic beach though so still full with high spirits I headed inshore,
and doing 1.5 knots quicker, from the Bench Head.
The Wallet is now lit up like Regent Street on new Year’s night which is a gift if heading to
the Spitway and down Swin, but next to useless for what I now had in mind of tucking
up for the night inshore of the Colne Bar. I settled for a pleasant piece of
water six feet deep just after low tide and out of the main Colne fairway. I lowered the hook and
let it take a nice bite then laid out 30 meters of chain before I set the alarm for
03.15 hrs. The Davies brass anchor light was lit and hoisted. It glowed like a
dream. Is there such a light that is more charming than a naked flame? I sat in
the ambient light and watched the bright stars above for a while. All was good
in the world as I retired into the cocoon down below.
Oil lamps can create an evocative, ambient glow |
Part Two next month
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